When it comes to fixing ropes on anchors, there are easily two ways to get this done. You can decide to fix your rope using the equalized technique or the focused method. While this is relatively easy to see, figuring out the exact technique to use while fixing your rope to an anchor can be a bit of a challenge as you do not want to put the lives of those that will use it at risk. As detailed in this video, the technique you settle on depends on whether the two abrasion anchors are of equal strength, their ability to fully support the load you put on them, and whether or not the load will stay in one direction.
Knowing that many situations will arise that will require you to tie a rope, including descending from a height or even wall climbing, understanding the processes of the equalized and focused technique, and your rope strength is very crucial.
Typically, to ensure minimum redundancy and abrasion issues, you may want to consider using load-limiting knots for the equalized technique. The focused technique allows you to lean more of the load on one side of the anchor, consequently preventing possible injuries.
To a large extent, the equalized and focused techniques can be effective methods for testing your abrasion anchors, and their ability to fully support a load.
